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2. Windows: almost every window here is equipped with a storm shutter something to slide down and block out all light. It is possible to have a very sunny day going on outside and feel like the bat cave in your room. The argentines like to sleep in-my host here one came into my room with a quizzical look on his face. He asked if I knew that I could pull down the shutters to shut out the light, wondering why I hadn't done so already. I replied that I actually like the light. We agreed to disagree.
3. Dulce de leche: This is a wonderful argentine treat; a smooth, delicious caramel spread that can really go on anything-cookies, cakes, toast for breakfast, stirred into espresso or swirled into ice-cream. I'm going to be stuffing as many jars into my suitcase as possible.
4. Restaurants: argentines are terrible tippers, and so the servers have no sense of urgency when taking orders, bringing out food, checking on the tables or bringing the check. Meals are an extended operation here. Ditto for coffee-there are limited opportunities for coffee to go here.
5. Straws: anytime you buy a bottle of water or pop, it comes with a straw. I feel alright drinking straight from the bottle, most argentines do not.
6. Change: there is a severe shortage of change-everyone begs and pleads for you to pay for exact change, and you need change to take the bus. Sometimes people simply won't sell you something unless you have change. How are you supposed to have change if no one gives it to you?
7. Bread plates: most restaurants give you a selection of bread and crackers when you sit down, and through out the meal, you'll have individual dishes for the butter, the jelly, your espresso cup, and whatever else you happen to order. Except for the bread; I have seen no more than two bread plates in my entire month here. You simply make a crumby mess at your place at the beginning of each meal.
8. Whole grains: they're not done here. Period. White rice, white bread, white toast. When our host finally bought wheat bread for our toast in the morning, I was actually excited enough to wake my roomie up and bring her to the kitchen and show her. Whole grains are newsworthy.
9. Plastic bags: every single thing you buy, even the diet coke and straw combo, is put into a plastic bag. They think you're really weird when you try to take something out of the store before being safely tucked into a bag.
10. Recycling: it is sort of done here; usually you buy a glass bottles of pop or beer and they're returned to be refilled by the manufacturer. Sometimes you pay a deposit on your glass bottle. Everything else is thrown away. Later, people on the streets go through the garbage and fill giant bins with plastic bottles and other recyclables. I heard the government pays them. I think it is kind of a sucky job.
11. The sofa: Our hosts here in BA are quite formal. I was gently told to take better care of the common areas of the apartment after leaving my book on the coffee table one afternoon. The carelessness! This morning my roomie spent a lazy morning reading on the couch and fell asleep. Inez later pulled me aside and asked me to tell her that is not how things are done here-there is no sleeping on the couch!
12. Mate: this is a strong but tasty drink that has a nice social ritual around it. A gourd, usually decorated with silver feet, is filled with the crushed dried mate leaves. A metal straw is in the leaves and the host of the circle fills the gourd with hot water. The first person in the circle sips the water until its gone and the gourd is returned to the host to be refilled. The gourd is passed around the circle until the mate flavor is gone and can be refilled with fresh leaves. It is a great circle for conversation and laughter and the gesture of sharing is really nice. You never really see mate on a menu, it is only something to be shared among friends.
